Permanent Makeup and Microblading – A guide to achieving your perfect brows

If you are reading this, you have taken your first step to achieving your perfect brows, and I’m sure you have so many questions to ask. I understand how important it is that you do your research when choosing to have a permanent makeup procedure, so I decided to help take the stress out of it for you. Here is a list of frequently asked question and my responses. So grab yourself a cup of tea and take some time to have a good read through all of this information. If I have missed anything, please feel free to ask any more questions. I hope you enjoy the read and look forward to hearing from you. Rebecca xx

What is Microblading?

Microblading, otherwise known as the hand tool method, is a semi-permanent eyebrow procedure which originated in Asia and is fast becoming the treatment of choice in brow design for men and women across the UK.

The hand tool method differs only from conventional ‘permanent makeup’ by the very fact that it is a manual procedure. Using a hand tool with a collection of between 8 to 14 very fine needles side by side, delicate fine channels or incisions are made in the skin in the shape of a natural hair. Your chosen colour of pigment is then deposited into these channels, matching in with your natural hair colour. Once healed, the pigment will lay under the surface of the skin, creating a fuller shape for your brows.

What look can I achieve with Microblading?

This procedure creates very natural results which enhance and perfect your natural brow, creating the perfect shape to frame your eyes. It will not replace a heavy pencil look as it is deposited under the skin not on top of the skin, it will create a beautifully natural result that you can wake up with every morning and a perfect guide to follow with your pencil or powder if you are wanting a stronger look. As an artist, I will advise you on the perfect shape and colour to suit your individual needs, and work closely with you to chose the most flattering look for your facial features.

It is recommended that you keep up with a regular maintenance procedure which will keep your brows looking at their best at all times, which can be done by your current brow technician or with one of our specialist brow technicians at Rebecca Jaynes.

What is Permanent Makeup?

Permanent Makeup, otherwise known as the machine method, is a method that is in fact a semi-permanent eyebrow procedure which has been a popular treatment used for many years. The reason it is called ‘permanent’ makeup is for the very reason that the pigment deposited under the skin may lay present in your skin for a number of years after your first treatment. So for legal reason, we must call it ‘permanent’ as to make our clients aware of this before making the decision to have the treatment. Pigment is deposited into the epidermis using a specialised tattoo machine and needle designed to work on delicate areas of skin such as the skin on our brow area. This method differs to Microblading, as it deposits more colour into one area, causing it to last longer and often appear darker and fuller.

What look can I achieve with the machine method?

This procedure creates natural results which enhance and perfect your natural brow, creating the perfect shape to frame your eyes. Although this creates a stronger look to Microblading it will not replace a heavy pencil look as it is deposited under the skin not on top of the skin, it will however create a beautifully natural result that you can wake up with every morning and a perfect guide to follow with your pencil or powder if you are wanting a stronger look. As the machine causes a vibration under the skin, the hair strokes created spread out when healed, creating a slightly fuller result to the hand tool method. As every client’s needs are different, every treatment that I perform is different depending on my client’s bone structure, facial features and look desired. I can create a look perfect to your style, whether you are wanting the natural hair stroke effect or a heavier powdered look. This can all be discussed during a thorough consultation on the day of your treatment.

How will I know which treatment is right for me?

This can be a decision that is made during a consultation either before you decide to book or on the day of your treatment. I will be able to advise you on what will suit your skin tone, natural hair growth, facial features and every day style. If you are at all unsure or nervous of the treatment looking too heavy, we can always start of with a subtle enhancement and build on this after you have had the chance to get used to your new look.

Can I have this treatment if I already have my brows tattooed?

It is possible that this treatment can be performed over the top of an existing tattoo. However, this will depend hugely on the existing work. If the shape is uneven it is sometimes more difficult to correct, also if they are quite a strong block look, it is often advised to fade out the existing work before implanting more pigment. If you are unsure as to whether you are a suitable candidate, please feel free to book a consultation to discuss your options. Also be aware that all treatments performed when working over another technician’s work will be charged at the full new treatment price with an extra needle fee for any extra treatments needed.

How long will each method last? And can the colour change over time?

Both treatments are a form of tattoo, they differ from a usual conventional tattoo as we deposit pigment and not ink. The molecules in the pigments we use are much smaller than the molecules in tattoo inks, which means our bodies will break them down quicker. The reason we choose pigments that will fade out over time is because all pigments and inks change colour through environmental exposure. Therefore, we aim to allow the pigment to fade down naturally over a 6-18 month period, allowing more space to implant fresh colour.

The implanted colour will typically last between 6-18 months (see treatment menu for current prices) this varies hugely from person to person, depending on skin type, environmental exposure etc. Too much exposure to UVA or UVB can cause colour change to the implanted pigment. There are precautions you can take to help your brows to last longer, including following the aftercare advice 2 weeks post treatment (see aftercare leaflet). Following a maintenance program and applying a high factor physical sun screen containing zinc oxide to your brows daily (ask our team about our recommended exclusive SPF facial moisturiser). Your body will gradually metabolise the pigment making the colour appear lighter and lighter. It is completely your choice when you come back for your colour boost between this time, providing there is still a haze of colour left to follow the existing shape.

Does the machine method last longer than the hand tool method?

The hand tool method and the hair stroke machine method are designed to look a lot more natural than a block powder brow, for this reason, as less colour is implanted for a finer look, the overall look will fade out quicker than if you were to opt for a strong heavy look. The hand tool method is particularly fine so may fade out quicker. However, if this is the look you are wanting to achieve, it is good to be aware that you may want this type of brow procedure topping up more regularly for optimum results.

Which skin conditions and factors can affect the outcome of a Permanent Makeup or Microblading procedure?

You often will hear professionals in the industry refer to skin type. When asked how long a treatment might last or asked to predict the final outcome of the treatment this can be extremely difficult. We cannot fully predict how long your treatment will last or how it will heal, as there are so many different variables that will affect the outcome of the treatment. Not only do these variables effect the longevity of your permanent makeup, but they can also effect the overall result. It is possible for the hair strokes to blur out quickly or pigment to fade quicker on certain individuals. In extreme cases your body could reject the pigment entirely.

Although it is important to know before your treatment which skin conditions can have an affect on the outcome of the treatment, these are not contra-indications and the treatment can still be performed and in most cases can still produce beautiful results.

The main factors that can effect your treatment are-

Skin conditions- Your skin is our window to the pigment we implant. Therefore, the condition of your skin can greatly affect the outcome of a permanent makeup or Microblading procedure.

Oily skin– The implanted pigment settles under the skin and mixes with the oils under the skin, causing the hair strokes to blur out and affecting the longevity of your treatment.

Excess sebum– small, white lumps of fat appearing on the surface of the skin, this condition is not limited only to oily skin types, and can effect the consistency of the pigment under the skin.

Open pores– can make hairstokes appear thicker when healed and colour can be lost during the healing process.

Peeling of the skin– makes it more difficult to achieve the correct depth of pigment implantation and excess colour loss occurs during healing. If the skin is dry over the top of your implanted pigment, it will make your implanted colour look lighter and dull. Keeping the skin well moisturised and exfoliated can help this problem.

Keratoses– keratoses are small skin coloured bumps under the skin caused due to a build up of ordinary skin cells. This is quite common, is not harmful or contagious but can be quite a nuisance to your permanent makeup or Microblading treatment. Keratoses are very difficult to detect and can often only be detected once the treatment has begun. The small lumps under the skin make it very difficult for the pigment to settle, causing the treatment to either heal patchy, light in colour or in extreme cases can push the pigment out all together.

Pigmentation– loss of pigment in the skin is often related to skin damage caused by the sun or Melasma, which can occur during pregnancy due to hormonal imbalance. It is an indication that the skin is damaged and therefore may effect the outcome of your treatment.

Scars– it is possible to perform permanent makeup or Microblading over scar tissue, however often multiple treatments are required as the thickening of the skin can make it difficult for implanted pigment to be visible on the surface.

Internal factors-

Hormonal imbalance– caused by pregnancy, menopause, stress, poor diet or medications.

Thyroid abnormalities– underactive or overactive thyroid can cause changes in the skin and hormones making the treatment outcome unpredictable.

External factors-

Excessive exercise– causes an increase in the metabolism often resulting in your body breaking down the pigment much quicker, resulting in more regular top up procedures.

Incorrect aftercare– all aftercare is given for a valid reason, to try to get the very best out of your treatment. Not following the aftercare correctly can result in extra top up procedures needed.

Can I have this treatment whilst pregnant?

We are not able to perform this treatment whilst pregnant or breastfeeding. It is advised to leave at least 8 weeks after pregnancy or after you have finished breastfeeding to allow time for your hormones to settle down.

Is it painful?

Both treatments are relatively pain free, topical anaesthetics are used throughout the procedure to keep pain at a minimum. Most clients compare the first part of the treatment to threading or tweezing, once the anaesthetic has got to work during the treatment clients can find the treatment quite relaxing and often fall asleep.

How long does a treatment take?

Your first treatment will take around 2 hours from start to finish including numbing time and a thorough consultation to choose your shape and colour. You will then return 6 weeks later for your second top up appointment which will take around an hour and a half. This retouch appointment is included in the price quoted and it is extremely important that you return for this visit.

Why will I need a retouch visit?

Both treatments are a 2-part process. The first session is to design your new brows, and deposit the first coat of pigment under the skin. When you leave they will look perfect, however, depending on skin type, aftercare and colour choice they may heal lighter and possibly patchy after the first session. A little bit like painting a wall, after the second session your brows will really come to life. This second treatment is to perfect the shape and colour, going over the whole brow again filling in any patches or shape change that may have occurred during the healing process.

For this reason, we recommend that you allow plenty of time to have your brows completed if you are wanting to have them done in time for any big event.

Pencil can be applied if necessary between appointments to keep your brows looking beautiful. And this will now be so much more enjoyable as you will have the perfect guide to follow.

How will my brows look straight after the treatment and is there anything I should know about the aftercare?

Immediately after, your brows will look quite dark and prominent, most clients experience very little redness or swelling and feel fine to go about their usual routine straight away. The following day, brows will look darker and will have started to form a thicker healing layer of skin over the top of the brow. At around day 5, you will be asked to apply coconut oil to the area which will start to shift the healing layer of skin. This will make the brow area appear a little patchy in colour. This usually lasts for a couple of days before all of the healing layer has shed away, revealing a much lighter colour underneath. At this stage the implanted pigment is covered by another healing layer of skin, so the brow will appear much lighter. It will take around 4-6 weeks for the true healed colour to be revealed, which will be around about the time you will be ready for your retouch visit, when we implant more colour where needed and correct any shape change caused during the healing process.

During the first 2 weeks, you will need to avoid getting your brows wet, avoid any direct sunlight, heat or steam, chlorine and avoid any excessive exercise. These same rules apply after your retouch visit also. So be sure to avoid any holidays, spa days etc. for the 2 weeks post treatment.

Will I need to do anything to maintain my brows once they are finished?

It is recommended that you keep up with a regular maintenance procedure which will keep your brows looking at their best at all times, which can be done by your current technician or with one of our specialist brow technicians at Rebecca Jaynes. This will include a wax or thread and tint. Because the pigment is implanted underneath your skin and not on top of your skin, it does not colour your natural brow hair. If you have opted for your colour to be slightly darker than your natural brow, you will need to continue to tint your own brow hair in order to keep your colour looking at its best at all times. However, you will be able to go much longer between visits, 8-10 weeks would be adequate. You may also want to apply pencil or powder over your new brows depending on your every day makeup routine.

How much does each treatment cost?

For all current prices, please request a treatment price guide.

How do I book and what happens next?

If you would like to book an appointment, we require a £50 deposit to secure your booking, however this is fully refundable if you wish to cancel and leave us with at least one weeks notice or more. Once you have secured your booking, we will send all of the adequate paperwork out in the post, including your medical health forms and consent forms. We will also include a patch test which needs to be applied prior to your appointment to ensure you have no allergic reaction to the pigments that we use. If you suffer from allergies to makeup or tinting, we would recommend that you pop in salon for a more thorough scratch test.

You are welcome to book a brief consultation free of charge prior to booking the full treatment, however this is not essential and a more thorough consultation will be carried out on the day of treatment.

Our diary usually books up 2 months in advance, however cancellations do come available from time to time and you will be offered to be placed on the cancellation list. Rebecca’s working hours are typically Monday to Friday 9-8pm. We highly recommend that you book your retouch visit at the same time as booking your initial treatment, as this will ensure you can have a convenient time slot.